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RE: Towing Concerns - 2008 Ford 150 XLT V8 5.4L
Hmmm. I tow close to 7,000# with my 2008 Supercrew without any issues. This is coming from a long-time diesel guy, too. I just had to adjust my expectations. Considering what I do with my truck, the $8,000 diesel option and the cost of fuel doesn't justify diesel anymore. I'm here to say that anything under 7k to 8k in weight should be a non-issue with an F-150. Unless you are pulling mountains the majority of the time. Dig up my past posts. You'll find plenty to read on this F-150 subject.
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Kampfirekid
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01/05/09 06:00am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Ford 150 2009
A few weeks ago, when I attempted- someone said the Ford 6-speed rarely got into 6th gear (and this is empty at highway speeds.)
I think I read where 6th was a good chunk higher than the old tranny's high gear and that first was a good chunk lower. That gives you a scary feeling that second through fifth could unlukily hit many of the same old "not-so-sweet" spots???
We just got a 2008 Expedition EL with the 6-speed and the 5.4L engine. Compared to my 2008 F-150 with the same engine and a 4-speed, the engine does have a low 1st gear. That alone will be a saving grace moving the load. At highway speeds, we never came out of 6th gear, until we hit a 40mph headwind on hills. Then it would shift. Otherwise, it never left 6th at 72mph. We were mildly loaded - not towing. I could see the 6-speed in the 2009 F-150 running in fifth towing, but in tow/haul mode, who cares. It has the grunt and was designed for it. Based upon my recent experience with the 2008 Expy with a 6-speed and the "less hp/tq" 5.4L engine than the 2009 sports, I'm sure the 2009 will be a winner.
I am very anxious for the 2009 F-150. I can't wait to trade up from my 2008 King Ranch F-150 just because of the 6-speed and the integrated brake control - not to mention other things. If what I experienced this weekend with our Expedition is what the new 2009 F-150 will offer with the 6-speed, sign me up.
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Kampfirekid
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12/16/08 01:34pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 08 F150 and towing capacities
I have posted here regarding towing with my 2008 F-150 Supercrew, 4WD, 5.4L V-8, 3.73 L/S Rear End, etc...
While we only tow 6,900# max now with our current 2009 North Trail 31BHD, we towed close to 5,000# before with our 2007 Jayco 26L. I'd never consider even coming close to the rated 9,200# you mentioned. There just is not enough truck and engine to tow it reasonably well and without white knuckles in my opinion. If you are approaching that weight figure, you should have looked at a 3/4 ton for comfort.
As for the tongue weight, I assume you have a Supercrew. Your payload is close to 1,600#. Keep in mind that you will need to deduct from that each occupant's weight (not the driver), everything packed in the back (bed), and the tongue weight. If you are around that 900# figure for tongue weight, I'm thinking you may just be better off towing with an empty bed and loading the trailer.
Our Jayco had close to 900# tongue weight and towed like garbage compared to out new North Trail with 500#. I still can't believe the difference. It is all in the trailer design alone.
If I were in your shoes based upon my experience, I'd go no heavier than 8,000# as recommended above by another, and load the trailer - not the truck - and hit the road. Without question, a WDH is a must at that weight. You won't be sorry.
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Kampfirekid
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12/16/08 01:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: What is up with oversize rims???
Well, when I bought my 2008 F-150 Supercrew, I got the 20" optional wheels, but couldn't get myself to accept the junk Pirelli P-Metric Scorpions. I bought Michelin LTX-AT2's in the next size 20's available because I wanted LT tires for towing. I even accepted the only available blackwalls even though I am a OWL tire fan. This tire exceeds my expectations and then some. The tires ride a bit stiff, but at an E rating, what would anyone expect? They corner like on rails, and have a taller sidewall than the stock Pirelli P-Metric 20's. Although the slighty larger tire diameter, the slightly larger width, and definitely heavier tire has messed up my "out of the hole" performance, I love these tires. I would probably NOT go with 20's again if I could because of the towing aspect, but it will not sway me is the truck I want is readily available with 20's. There are so many tire options today with load ratings beyond belief that 15's or 20's shouldn't be an issue.
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Kampfirekid
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12/02/08 08:00pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: KZ SPREE OR NORTHTRAIL travel trailers
Hi Kampfirekid,
I have the same tow vehicle as you (2007 F150 Screw XLT) and we're considering the North Trail models as well. So your 31BHD pulls pretty well, huh? It's not surprising given the GVWR of 6900lbs and low hitch weight of only 465lbs. My only concern is the length of the unit. 32' 7" is about 3' longer than I was planning on going. How does it handle cross winds, and do you have trouble getting it into any sites?
Thanks in advance.
Well, I have to sat that I cringed when I looked at our original 26 foot Jayco. It turned out to be a non-issue. Then with our new 31BHD North Trail, I again sweated the additional FIVE feet. All I can say is the North Trail totally mystifies me in terms of towing ease. I run the Equalizer WDH, too, but the last two times we pulled the NT we had 40mph cross winds, and behind the Nifty F-150, she pulled far better than our Jayco. My wife even commented on how we eren't being whipped around. I seroiusly believe it has to do with the minimal resistance under the trailer with the enclosed underbelly (we didn't have before), the sloping front end cap (we didn't have, either), and certainly the wide track axles. The balance with the axles is fantastic, but trying to wiggle a trailer side to side when the axles are farther apart is harder to do... the leverage isn't there as much as trying to pivot a trailer with wheels close together. I look at it like trying to spin a single axle trailer by hand, and then trying to do that with a tandem. The farther apart or the longer the wheelbase, the better the stability and "wiggle".
I have no problem getting into sites with 33 feet of rig, and the longest wheelbase Supercrew (6-1/2 foot bed), although a 35+ footer isn't in my future. Then I'll go with a fiver. Don't be concerned with the length. It turns much easier the longer it is.
As for the ease, I can't tell you enough the difference over our Jayco. It is night and day. I figured the 5,000# Jayco (fully loaded) was a LOAD for my F-150 just because it felt that way. I swear the NT feels so much lighter and better I'd consider something even larger, but don't want to get that out of hand. I know it sounds weird, but the North Trail IS THAT MUCH BETTER. I don't think you'd be sorry. Anything else, just ask... I'll try to help.
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Kampfirekid
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12/01/08 04:43pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: KZ SPREE OR NORTHTRAIL travel trailers
I have a North Trail 31BHD. I'll say that so far, I am very satisfied with our unit. We considered the 32BHDS, too, but chickened out because of the weight and length. Someone on Northtrail.com pulls one with an Avalanche with no problems. After seeing how well our 31BHD pulls with my 2008 F-150 Supercrew, I'd have no second thoughts pulling a 31BHDS North Trail. In fact, I'm a bit ticked we didn't go with taht model, but all I had to compare to was our Jayco 26L, which was very heavy in the tongue, poorly balanced, and was pretty much as resistant as you could get in the wind department. Our North Trail with the sloping front end, enclosed underbelly, wide track axles, and lighter tongue weight pulls like it's 1,500#'s LIGHTER although it's actually 1,500#'s HEAVIER than our Jayco 26L was. Believe me, it is a NIGHT and DAY DIFFERENCE.
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Kampfirekid
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12/01/08 09:06am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Ford's 4.4 delayed
Great! I just knew it. The minute I was to get the first diesle F-150 off the line, they pulled the plug! I offered to be the gineau pig and this is what I get?
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Kampfirekid
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11/20/08 07:01am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Towing 6800# with an F150? Should I go 3/4 ton instead?
I've lived this dilema and have written enough about it here on this board to bore many, so look up some of my older posts.
I come from a long history of Powerstrokes and went to a 2008 F-150 Supercrew last June. I sometimes put on close to 60,000 miles a year so I trade frequently. I tow maybe 5,000 miles. The first time I hooked up to my F-150 with our last Jayco (5,000#, or so), I about died - there was that much difference from the diesel. After towing our trailer about 400 miles that weekend from N. Illinois to N. Wisconsin, I realized that the truck was in fact a nice puller.
No, the truck won't win any race awards. No, there is not alot of payload after two kids, the wife, and the 900+ pound tongue weight we had, but it was nowhere near the "white knuckle" pull so many talk about. Undoubtedly, a Superduty will pull better with any engine, but for the 1,000+ miles a week I drive unloaded, I don't need bouncing around on a 3/4 ton suspension and burning fuel that costs $1.00 more per gallon to tow with the truck only a dozen times a year.
I eat, breath, (infill yourself), diesel trucks. Diesel is in my veins and soot in my underwear, but I couldn't get a grip on the 10-12 mpg numbers these new diesels get with the particulate filters, so I went with an F-150. Despite my real early post on in early 2007 regarding F-150's pulling like junk, I have now lived it with my current ride, and am very happy with my choice based upon my needs.
YOU need to decide what your needs are. Adjust your expectations as required. Determine what the truck is rated at and what it is capable of. I would NEVER pull 9,200# behind my F-150 for a long term pull. Short jaunt camping trips, maybe, but I seriously doubt it. I'd like to always have a 15% buffer minimum, so that puts me at about 7,800# trailer weight on a 2008 Supercrew. The 2009's are rated close to 11,200#, and will pull much better with the six-speed tranny, tow/haul mode in tranny, integrated brake control, and sway control. I'd seriously consider a 2009 despite the incentives on the 2008's if the vehicle was going to be a long term truck- just because of the 2009 additions.
Worthy of mentioning is this... we traded off our 2007 Jayco for a Heartland. The trailer has made a world of difference. The sloping front end cuts through the air and decreases drag over our last "flying brick" Jayco. The half tongue weight (now close to 400# over the 920# Jayco) makes a huge difference in our payload dent. The wide track axles are ALL the world of difference and I'd probably try to not consider another trailer without them IF I could. Your trailer may very well be much better than our Jayco was, so you may be ahead of the game.
I suggest you weigh in on all fronts. This includes towing capacity, payload, tongue weight, maximum trailer length recommendations, weight-distribution hitch choices, etc. PAYLOAD sinks many ships. People forget tongue weight dents payload severly. People also seem to forget that batteries and propane not figured into tongue weight add up. Do your math. I highly doubt you'll add 1,000 to 1,500 pounds of cargo to your trailer, but if the weight ratings on your trailer are off from the factory, which they usually are, you may be in for a surprise.
Good luck. Sorry for all the wind, but I've lived the dilema,a nd although my trailer isn't as heavy as yours, I am very satisfied to date - even with our new trailer that is five feet longer and 1,000 pounds heavier than the trailer I started pulling this season.
Oh, I also NOW run tweaked - exhaust, tunes, and intake. I only added tweaks well after the season started. It makes a good difference - especially with temperatures. I can't say the $1,000 spent is that worth it for towing, but for the daily drive it sure is. If I were you, I'd consider adding LT tires, though, because the stiffer sidewalls make a huge difference. The P-metrics may have good load ratings, but the strength of the sidewall is where it's at. Good luck.
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Kampfirekid
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11/20/08 06:53am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: hitch ball
While I won't comment on branding on balls, the ball that came with my Equalizer seems to have a copper sub-finish below the chrome. It is exposed where the coupler has scratched the surface of the chrome. The grease applied to the ball never seems to allow any rusting, and that includes the other ball/stinger setup I have for my other trailers. I see a few galvanized balls that show much sign of wear, and those have rusted quite a bit.
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Kampfirekid
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11/20/08 06:19am |
Towing
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RE: heartland -north trail vs. forest river- rockwood opinions.
Well, I'll speak my piece...
We were long-time Forest River fans and that brand was always our dream. After we had a go-around with their warranty department on a Shamrock hybrid we wanted to buy, we just didn't have a warm and fuzzy feeling. That said, we stilllike the interiors of the Flagstaff and Rockwood travel trailers. We looked long and hard this fall at both the Forest River (FR) and North Trail (NT). The FR in our opinion still has better woodwork with real wood veneer cabinets and nice doors. However, the drawers and doors feel cheap when opening and closing compared to the NT. The NT has "Amish" cabinet doors, but all the cabinets are wood-grained contact paper over plywood. I am a BIG wood buff, and that issomething I had a hard time with when deciding between the FR and the NT. I am over that now.
We bought a North Trail 31BHD, and even though it is in for the end of the season for winterizing and a long warranty list accompanied it, I still feel no remorse on our decision. The trailer structure of the NT we feel is far superior to anything in that price range, and in most cases, higher priced competitors. The more I look at our NT, the happier I am because I feel the frame, walls, insulation, roof, etc are where the rubber meets the road, and ultimately will decide the longevity of this trailer. We are the type of people who will sell our trailer in several years, and it will look just as good as the day we putrchased it.
If I had to gripe about the NT, I woudl say their quality control needs to be reconsidered. We have a bunch of nit-picking details that could have been caught prior to the trialer being shipped, and I guess that could reflect our dealer as well, but we didn't catch them either.
The FR look like 1970's box trailers to us, while the NT has a sleek modern appearance. I'll say that I have towed enough to know, and our Jayco Jayfeather was more aerodynamic that the FR, and this NT pulls 1000 times better than our Jayco. The rounded front end and the wide track axles are the world of difference. Also, our tongue weight is almost 1/2 of our last Jayco, which helps tremendously.
I'd seriously consider the NT. Heartlands own website, that I frequent, has great suppotr, and it is monitored by Heartland. I have been asked by Heartland representatives several times how I like my trailer and what is the status with the warranty items. They even want to be involved with the warranty items before the dealer has fixed them. We are waiting for the status of our warranty items, so I can't comment any further there.
This is my $0.02. I still like the FR products, but I do think Heartland has come up with a winner... maybe the better winner.
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Kampfirekid
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10/31/08 08:28am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: heartland travel trailers
Just purchased a 31BHD. Come on... add yourself to the list. You won't be sorry.
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Kampfirekid
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10/24/08 06:36am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: 2009 NorthTrail
You will love it. We just purchased a 2009 (early build) 31BHD. I wish we would have gone with the 32QBSS, but hey, there's something to look forward to, right? I have to say, as I've posted before, I think the structure of the Heartland is just about second to none - and if not, it's because something else is priced substantially higher. We love our North Trail, and although I have a laundry list of items it will be going in for this weekend, I still am very happy with the unit. Maybe I'm just getting old.
Not to slight this site, but take a look at the Heartland Owners Forum. Everything you could possibly want to know about your NT will be discussed there. heartland monitors the forum closely, and is very interested in customer feedback.
I still feel the "contact paper" wood finish on the North Trail cabinets is really cheesy, but I come from a long history of finish carpenters and have a very high appreciation for good wood. The North Trail is not real wood or veneer - except for the cabinet doors. Our last Jayco had real nice oak doors and all the cabinets were veneered, stained, and varnished cabinets. The comparable Jayco would have cost us close to $5,000 more (minimum), and weighed a ton more, so knowing this is not our "last" trailer, I can easily accept the different cabinet treatments. The reported excellent customer service and what I consider to be a fantastic structured unit is all I needed to convince me. Jayco's cocky know-it-all service representative did me absolutely no favors at the end of our ownership, and that alone might have closed the Jayco Chapter for good in my book.
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Kampfirekid
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10/24/08 06:19am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Quad bunk trailer
I was a Jayco owner and have now gone to a Heartland North Trail. I would seriously consider the 31 foot bunk model they have. The next scale up is the Heartland Sundance XLT. I think that structure wise, Heartland is one of the best out there while maintaining a resonable price. I think their North Trail model is the 31QBS, and the Sundance is the 310QB. We have a 31BHD with a side slide with a convertible sofa and a bunk. I can't say enough about the superior towing with our F-150 over the Jayco we had. The weight distribution and wide track axles are the world of difference. The Heartland models gross at 6,900$, but unloaded go around 5,500#. The quad bunk model(s) have a small dinette option in place of one of the bunks, which is great for kids, and the bunkhouse area has more room than any other bunkhouse I've seen on the market without going to a bunkhouse that has a slide incorporated into it.
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Kampfirekid
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10/23/08 12:41pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Water filter - In-Line or Canister? & Watts Regulator
Drfife, is that black pipe you used for your filter connections? Gasline for waterline? Not sure if that's a no-no or not, but I can't see excatly what you did there.
As for filters, I see some of these filters take care of some types of bacteria, but they cost anywhere from $25 to $40 for the filter element alone, where the $17 special "one 200 gallon use" RV filters that go inline outside your RV do the same. Is this bacteria removal necessay? I've seen many posts on several sites about people getting sick from bacteria at some campgrounds. Should I invest in a filter that removes them? Most larger whole-house filters I find only remove sediment, odor, and rust - not bacteria. What should I do?
Our house water is well water with bad rust, so even for the one fill this season I purchased the single disposable 2000 gallon filter from Walmart to be safe. Next year, I want to filter the city connection, and I will filter any water we put in the freshwater tank independently. Unfortunately, our North Trail has PEX tubing, so we may be buying the special pliers, cutters, and band clamps to make this happen. What would you do for a filter in my situation - especially regarding bacteria removal?
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Kampfirekid
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10/22/08 02:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Winterizing with Alchohol
Thanks for the votes, but how do I get the olive out that is stuck in my faucet?
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Kampfirekid
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10/20/08 09:03am |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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RE: Help Cure My Dry Camping Phobia
I'm just baffled. I think I will fill the tahnk with plain water and see how fast and how well it flows. I left the valve open and the cap off after I finished draining and flushing (by mistake) yesterday afternoon. Ironically, this morning, over twelve hours after I drained the tank, the driveway was wet with a 20+ foot path from the tank still draining (trickling). Don't get excited... I flushed the tank and all with soap and bleach so no contamination of the subgrade is going on here in the sticks.
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Kampfirekid
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10/20/08 08:57am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Help Cure My Dry Camping Phobia
Well, to be sure to nip this black tank issue in the bud and avoid my dry caping phobia, I decided to "pre-charge" the black tank with ten gallons of water before we even left the house. I figured that at approximately 1/3 full, we'd have a good amount of solution for the tank contents by the time we were ready to dump. Upon leaving Sunday, I even topped the tank off with water from buckets until the black tank was completely full. Then to the dump station.
I made sure we drove around the acmpground a bit before dumping to help break things down. Then, I pulled the valve open and got a gush of a full hose for about five seconds - I could see through the clear connection I had installed. Then, a trickle... for ever. I added several buckets through the toilet and nothing but a 1/4 inch wide stream in the invert of the hose. With no hose connection for the tank flush, I was doomed. I added about 12 gallons of water through the toilet, but we never got much flow, and by the time we had to leave to avoid ticking off the guys behind us, the tank was close to 2/3 full. When I got home, it was constant flushing and bucketing to the septic, and close to two hours later, we were clean again.
I am wondering if we actually have an obstruction going on. I have heard of the "plug" drilled out by the fatory for the drain connection being left in the tank and causing problems. I just can't figure out how we have had this issue every time (twice) we have used this trailer. If we had another weekend left this season, I'd try the TP in the bag trick. We only use the RV toilet paper from Camping World, and although I do find a glob coming our now and then, it is not enough in my estimation to plug things up so bad that the water (liquid) almost completely stops.
I think that tonight I am going to fill the tank up 100% now that there is no waste in the tank and see how it drains with all water. Maybe I'll find it will slow up or stop, and that will support (or negate) my reasoning of an obstruction.
Is it possible the way it is plumbed is an issue? I can't se with the enclosed underbelly, but both the grey and black tanks come into a tee for the main drain, and the valves are on each opposing side of the tee. This is so frustrating, and now having to think about it all winter whithout resolution is going todrive me nuts. I wouldn't think it is the TP when it is RV approved, but why aren't any of you having issues? How can the TP break down on a two-day weekend?
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Kampfirekid
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10/20/08 07:38am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Sprayer for commode
I wanted to do this in our late Jayco, but never did. Our North Trail has PEX tubing with those special clamps. I'm not buying the special tools, and after reading this post, the shower sprayer is right there. Woo hoo!
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Kampfirekid
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10/17/08 07:21am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Outback Loft...pics
Can I get one in camo? Maybe a nice deer stand, but that's my only vote.
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Kampfirekid
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10/17/08 07:16am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Winterizing with Alchohol
I'm vrying the todka rexperiment night row. Sor rome feason, I've come up short a tallon or goo... again. Suts wup tith tat? Yext near, I'm boing gack to the sink ptuff. Oh, hy mead hurts.
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Kampfirekid
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10/15/08 06:44pm |
Hybrid Travel Trailers
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